Radishes, Celery, and Finger Bowls upon request!
January 27, 2016 1:48 AM   Subscribe

The unusual foods Americans loved a century ago. A massive collection of historical menus at the New York Public Library has been digitised for your perusal.
posted by blue_beetle (98 comments total) 27 users marked this as a favorite
 
The 100-Mile Diet writ large.
posted by fairmettle at 2:05 AM on January 27, 2016


Celery, radishes and olives makes a lovely salad to start. I'm not sure how these people have never experienced relish plates or crudites or, you know, a garden salad to start a meal, but I'm not sure how that's particularly different from a plate of fresh vegetables and olives at a restaurant back in the near past.

Anyway sorry for the snark (I say as I munch on some celery), I love this stuff. The graphic design alone is enough to absorb me for days, and then the actual food can run from so mundane (puree of tomatoes! someone get the goldfish crackers) to so curiously odd (fricasee of calf's feet, yes, I would order that in a heartbeat) that I will need to budget my time perusing.

I think the menu I like best in the linked article is the Russian Tea Room's. A Sea-Gull sounds amazing. What is apricot liqueur like?
posted by Mizu at 2:08 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


I wonder if crudites have disappeared from restaurant menus as home entertaining became more commonly available and accessible. This is pretty standard pre-dinner offerings at almost any dinner party I go to (in addition to the expansion of multi-culturalism that added salsa, chips, pita bread and hummus alongside the carrots and celery).

As much as the article is trying to make these menus sound weird, I can imagine quite a few of these dishes being very comfortable on some menus of today. I can very easily see Oysters on Toast, Fricassee of Calf's Feet, and Pineapple Ice Cream at a number of trendy London restaurants (those items would fit right in on a blackboard at St. John's, for example just as their Ox Heart, Pickled Beetroot & Horseradish could easily be listed on these old menus).
posted by like_neon at 2:40 AM on January 27, 2016 [11 favorites]


It seems to really just come down to "rich people eat food most people aren't used to". I'm assuming that you had to be pretty well off to go to a restaurant back then. Although restaurants are very common these days, if you go to a "really nice" restaurant, there will be items that a lot of people will think weird or gross. If you showed these menus to people of the same era, but of a lower class that did not frequent restaurants, I wonder if they too would find the items difficult to relate to.
posted by like_neon at 2:47 AM on January 27, 2016


Seems largely 'stuff from the old country' because a lot of that is still eaten in those countries.
posted by GallonOfAlan at 3:19 AM on January 27, 2016


All of this puts me in mind of T-Bone Slim's The Lumberjack's Prayer, an old IWW song about all the delicacies on a worker's wishlist (steak, quail on toast, brown gravy with German fried potatoes, sliced tomatoes as a side dish) and the awful quotidian food he gets (unsavory hash and sausage, adulterated bread, etc).
posted by graymouser at 3:58 AM on January 27, 2016 [11 favorites]


I've seen raw vegetables (not tossed with greens) with some kind of dipping dressing offered since the 1960s.

I've only heard it referred to as crudités (or crudites) the last couple years and then only as a prepackaged item in cafeterias.

 
posted by Herodios at 4:09 AM on January 27, 2016


I'm not sure you could write "Boiled Ham" on a fancy menu these days and get people's interest.
posted by Nanukthedog at 4:18 AM on January 27, 2016 [5 favorites]


That's funny, Herodios, since my parents and I call them crudites, and until recently had to remember to say "veg and dip" when talking to others (like remembering to say "sprinkles" instead of "jimmies" in California.)
posted by blnkfrnk at 4:50 AM on January 27, 2016 [5 favorites]


Some Jewish delis still serve a plate of crudités along with the standard pickles. I love, love, love the menus but really question the framing of the article. What's so unusual about the items on the Empire State Building, or the Baily Caterinrg Company's catering menu for the Pan Americna [sic!] Exposition?

Then there's the Boneless Bacon and Brussells Sprouts from the PA Railroad dining car menu. I just want to know what the hell Bone-in Bacon and Brussells Sprouts is.

On preview, "jimmies" isn't a California thing?? Maybe I brought it with me when we moved here from NY when I was in 2nd grade, but I've always thought that's what they are called. TMYK 💫
posted by Room 641-A at 4:58 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Raw vegetables to begin a meal is usually picked out as a uniquely American serving pattern, it mutated into garden salads or crudités but vegetables to start (rather than pasta, seafood, or cheese, or the salad between courses) is still pretty common.

A lot of 1900s/ Railway car era dishes have been super trendy for a while, partly because they tend to be more seasonal and local, and partly cause they were novel (they're not anymore, but it's been a while, and it's gone from fad to huge change in what appears on menus, in 20 years "pickles, mustards, and preserved meat" is going to be the shorthand for 00s era food)
posted by The Whelk at 5:14 AM on January 27, 2016 [7 favorites]


On preview, "jimmies" isn't a California thing?? Maybe I brought it with me when we moved here from NY when I was in 2nd grade, but I've always thought that's what they are called.

Jimmies isn't an American thing. Only godless east coast secular humanist call them jimmies. Real Americans have always called then sprinkles.
posted by vorpal bunny at 5:21 AM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]


How is there not a US dialect variation map for jimmies v. sprinkles? My jimmies, they are rustled.

really, I prefer hundreds and thousands.
posted by zamboni at 5:25 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


Real Americans have always called then sprinkles.

(pronounced "spronk-luh")
posted by ROU_Xenophobe at 5:25 AM on January 27, 2016 [20 favorites]


I just want to know what the hell Bone-in Bacon and Brussells Sprouts is.

American bacon comes from the lower center section of the pig (the belly). A slab of belly is removed from the rest of the pig by cutting it off the ribs, which then become spare ribs or St.Louis-style ribs. Presumably, you could leave the rib rack attached to the belly meat and make "bacon" from the whole subprimal by curing and smoking, and then cut it along the bones like giant rib chops or something.
posted by backseatpilot at 5:25 AM on January 27, 2016 [7 favorites]


A slab of belly is removed from the rest of the pig by cutting it off the ribs, which then become spare ribs or St.Louis-style ribs. Presumably, you could leave the rib rack attached to the belly meat and make "bacon" from the whole subprimal by curing and smoking, and then cut it along the bones like giant rib chops or something.

Shoulder bacon ("cottage bacon" sometimes) is also a thing, and a very tasty thing at that. Presumably you could make it bone-in, though I've never seen it sold that way.
posted by Dip Flash at 5:38 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


I've only heard it referred to as crudités (or crudites) the last couple years and then only as a prepackaged item in cafeterias.

Standard party fare for my family, but the first time I heard them called by that name was my wedding. Both my spouse and I were like "what the hell are crud-ites?"
posted by Foosnark at 5:46 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


I'm intrigued by the copious use of modifiers indicating some sort of special preparation. Some are familiar, but others...beats me what they mean.

Caroline
Julienne (I know what this usually means, but in the context of a consomme?)
a l' Allemande
Hoteliere
Stanley
St. Lambert
Jardinere
St. Germain
la Parisienne
al Salpicon
et Gigot
Princesse
Meuniere ( I think I know what this is)
posted by Thorzdad at 5:48 AM on January 27, 2016 [7 favorites]


Real Americans have always called then sprinkles.

Grown flip-flop-wearing West Coast urine enthusiasts call them "sprinkles," a wee and twee pee-pee word that goes perfectly with a fluffy little HRT tail and overall lack of seriousness. Sophisticated and urbane East Coasters with a mature and abiding love of playful historicity call them "jimmies." And no, "jimmies" is not racist.

Of course, Maryland being Maryland, we're a split state, but fortunately I came of age in a pocket of jimmies.
posted by sonascope at 5:49 AM on January 27, 2016 [10 favorites]


“alligator pear” – an old-timey name for avocados.

I propose we return to this. This is awesome, and I'm surprised the avocado marketers aren't all over this. Can't you just see the cartoon commercials aimed at kids? The Alligator Pear superhero?
posted by If only I had a penguin... at 5:50 AM on January 27, 2016 [16 favorites]


Starting the meal with raw veggies and olives remains absolutely standard in my father's Midwestern family. We continued the tradition despite having moved to the coast and it never seemed unusual enough to make any of my friends comment on it. It's a good way to get kids to eat some vegetables and if dinner is running late, it gives them something to stave off the hunger with.

I don't know if it's something my southern raised grandmother on the other side picked up from my father or something she did growing up as well, but it was standard at dinners with her too.
posted by Candleman at 5:51 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


The unusual foods Americans loved a century ago.

A liverwurst sandwich and a bottle of beer with a sweeping view of Manhattan sound pretty keen to me. Especially for under a buck.

Only godless east coast secular humanist call them jimmies.

No. My partner, who is from the Great Plains, calls them jimmies. I, a godless east cost secular humanist, have always called them sprinkles.
posted by aught at 5:55 AM on January 27, 2016 [6 favorites]


There's pork jowl bacon too. Maybe bone-in is the entire pig face, like in a pig snout sandwich.
posted by XMLicious at 6:00 AM on January 27, 2016


My family always put out a plate of celery, radishes and carrots for nice dinners too. Maybe when average people started serving plates of radishes, fancy restaurants stopped because it wasn't fancy anymore.
posted by interplanetjanet at 6:01 AM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]


remembering to say "sprinkles" instead of "jimmies" in California . . .

Only godless east coast secular humanist call them jimmies. Real Americans have always called then sprinkles. . . .

How is there not a US dialect variation map for jimmies v. sprinkles?


I imagine there is, somewhere. Here's a very simple one for New Jersey.

Data point: I grew up in Cincinnati (Queen City, Gateway to the South godhelpus, etc.) with zero family ties to east coast cities.

We always called them "jimmies".

“alligator pear” – an old-timey name for avocados.
I propose we return to this.


I thought alligators were oviparous.
 
posted by Herodios at 6:06 AM on January 27, 2016


Now that I think about it, I call the chocolate ones jimmies and the rainbow ones sprinkles. Anyway, I'm not a fancy ice cream lady. I usually eat it plain, but my favorite thing is coffee ice cream with a ton of jimmies, and I occasionally go to a self-serve froyo place and get about 1/4 cup froyo and then spill half a shaker of jimmies on accipurpose into the cup. I'm probably not fooling anyone, so I should just go buy a thing of jimmies instead of paying for them by the pound.

I should probably buy a sampling of bacons and check for bone fragments, just in case.
posted by Room 641-A at 6:08 AM on January 27, 2016 [6 favorites]


Yeah, it seems like Ana Swanson hasn't eaten in a restaurant in a decade, at least.

…the Pennsylvania Railroad, a defunct railroad that most people will know from the game Monopoly.

Jesus Christ. Between that and the US spellings in pieces under the same byline, it looks like the Independent is just slurping up an RSS feed from the Washington Post's Clickbaity Cackdrivel & Cockawful Listicle Dept., without even bothering to glance at the stuff they're reprinting.
posted by jack_mo at 6:10 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


I love reading about all the different kinds of ketchup that people used to regularly make, because "ketchup" was a preparation method, not the name of a food. Walnut ketchup! Mushroom ketchup! I'M SO CURIOUS.

(please note: I did not see any ketchups listed in these examples, it is just that I have studied a LOT of historical menus in my research, and mystery ketchups fascinate me)
posted by a fiendish thingy at 6:18 AM on January 27, 2016 [13 favorites]


So, the Russian Tea Room example just shows they didn't even bother to look anything current up, just boggled at the totes wacky old stuff they had at hand; the current RTR menu has most of the same drinks as the old menu in the article, with maybe a little more markety language describing them.

"Look at all this cray-cray old-timey stuff that, well, on second glance maybe isn't so cray-cray after all! But, you know, it's from olden times, so OMG anyway! People were alive then and they ate and drank? Whoa! Please favorite and share my article anyway, okay?"

Honestly, in most of these cases, there are two main differences -- nothing is run by a chain franchise, and the marketing language (or lack thereof) that describes the dishes. (I'm thinking the two go hand in hand.) My favorite is the Empire State Building observation deck menu that tells you, "If desirous of mailing this menu to a friend, ask cashier for a stamped envelope," which is pretty much 1933-speak for "Like us on Facebook!"
posted by aught at 6:18 AM on January 27, 2016 [10 favorites]


We always called them "jimmies".

I've heard that term used for condoms, so I would check your location when ordering ice cream.
posted by Dip Flash at 6:22 AM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]


From Snopes
. . . the Just Born company [of] Brooklyn . . . have long maintained that not only did they come up with the name "jimmies," but they invented the product as well:
jimmies were invented at Just Born . . . Although there is nothing in writing to confirm it, it is commonly known here that the chocolate sprinkles were named after the Just Born employee who made them.
The notion that Just Born "invented" chocolate sprinkles is specious, however, as newspaper references to chocolate sprinkles antedate the founding of the company . . .

[Candy] company histories often include a fudge factor . . .
posted by Herodios at 6:26 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


Walnut ketchup! Mushroom ketchup!

Though to me honest a lot of hip bistros have things like sriracha miso heirloom tomato ketchup and truffle oil organic Thai garlic crimini aioli to dip your $7.50 paper cone of Belgian method double-duck-fat fries in.
posted by aught at 6:26 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


There is so much historical info in those menus. I've spent many evenings analyzing them and then going down some wormhole.

A favorite was reading this menu for a dinner honoring Matthew Henson and then researching him for a few hours. What an amazing life. From orphan working as a dishwasher to exploring the Arctic. Such a remarkable man. The still called him "Peary's negro" in the press.
posted by ReluctantViking at 6:32 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


The relish called "chow chow" is not a 19th century anachronism but something I grew up with near Pennsylvania Dutch country. You can use it at farmers' markets and tourist spots all over Lancaster County, PA.
posted by jonp72 at 6:37 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Here in Indiana, there are a couple of fried chicken dinner restaurants that haven't changed their menus in 50+ years. Hollyhock Hill and Hilltop Restaurant in Spencer (my favorite). Every dinner starts with tomato juice, cottage cheese, pickled beets, carrots, celery sticks & ranch dip.

So great. If you're local you should really check on out. It's like stepping into a really neato time warp with yummy old school food.
posted by leotrotsky at 6:38 AM on January 27, 2016 [5 favorites]


Hundreds and thousands, Philistines.
posted by maxsparber at 6:39 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


For folks noticing Green Turtle Soup on the menus, I direct you to Saveur's Whatever happened to Turtle Soup?

The Answer (from an ecologist): Turtles live long and breed slow. We ate them all and the population still hasn't recovered.
posted by leotrotsky at 6:43 AM on January 27, 2016 [7 favorites]


Also, don't eat turtles, because they live so long at the top of the food chain they fill up with all the toxins and pollutants we dump into the water (PCBs, mercury, etc).
posted by leotrotsky at 6:48 AM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]




From various culinary and menu term dictionaries:

Caroline: small choux pastry stuffed with meat pâté purée with chaud-froid

Julienne: [in this context, it means that the consomme was made using chopped vegetables]

a l' Allemande: A rich cream sauce made of Veloute (usually veal), a liaison of egg yolks and lemon juice.

Hoteliere: Innkeeper's style.

Stanley: a method of serving chicken [not very helpful, I know]

St. Lambert: [this one I wasn't sure about. there may be some connection to filberts by way of German]

Jardinere: Garden vegetables used as a garnish, usually carrots, green beans, onions and turnips.

St. Germain: grilled breaded fish

la Parisienne: dishes with a garnish of potato balls fried in herb butter and vegetables, often including artichoke hearts; poached fish with mushrooms and truffles in white wine sauce, surrounded by crayfish; chicken consommé with macédoine of vegetables, rounds of royale, and chervil; sauce blonde; a method of serving potatoes

al Salpicon: shredded or finely cut; Mexican shredded meat salad; hash. Cooked food cut into tiny pieces, usually as a filling for pastry.

et Gigot: with leg of mutton

Princesse: garnished with asparagus tips and truffles or noisette potatoes

Meuniere: Fish or seafood sauteed and served in brown butter. Also, with sauce of butter, lemon juice and parsley.
posted by jedicus at 6:54 AM on January 27, 2016 [29 favorites]


Mushroom ketchup! I'M SO CURIOUS.

You could just buy some! Geo. Watkins is the standard supermarket brand, and there are lots of fancypants 'artisinal' ones knocking about.

Adding a few glugs to a beef stew or steak and kidney pie can be lovely - like Worcestershire sauce, it magically makes meaty things taste meatier.
posted by jack_mo at 7:05 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


If you're into this kind of thing, the NYPL is crowdsourcing the transcription of menus as they are scanned into the collection.

There is currently a batch of newly transcribed menus that need a final review. Here are the transcription instructions and guidelines. More relevant to this post, you could use that data to comb through the individual dishes sorted by obscurity to find unusual ones, with the caveat that in this case "obscure" means appearances on menus and not the actual dish.

What happened to tomato juice appetizers?
"No doubt there are restaurants that still have it on the menu – nothing really ever goes away totally. [ ... ] But by the 1980s it was considered an appetizer totally lacking in sex appeal, analogous to vanilla ice cream as a dessert. But, who knows? It could make a comeback.
A comeback? They serve tomato juice at Denny's. (My drinking glasses at home are the iconic Libby's glasses that you find in restaurants. I bought them in part because the juice glasses are so cute.)
posted by Room 641-A at 7:09 AM on January 27, 2016 [5 favorites]


I propose we return to this. This is awesome, and I'm surprised the avocado marketers aren't all over this. Can't you just see the cartoon commercials aimed at kids? The Alligator Pear superhero?

Avocados have a long history of amusing names, apparently the original name for them translates as "testicle" while the similarity between the word for avocado and lawyer (they are the same in French and Spanish, for instance) led to them being called 'lawyer pears' in many countries that import them.
posted by the uncomplicated soups of my childhood at 7:18 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


I'm intrigued by the copious use of modifiers indicating some sort of special preparation. Some are familiar, but others...beats me what they mean.

This procrastinating food dork is also intrigued! Digging around in cookbooks from that era:

Puree of tomatoes or consomme, Caroline: soup served with seasoned rice.

Julienne (I know what this usually means, but in the context of a consomme?): consomme with julienned root vegetables that are lightly cooked in the broth.

a l' Allemande: velouté sauce thickened with egg yolks, cream and flavored with lemon juice.

Broiled Whitefish, Hoteliere: fish baked under buttered paper and served with a wine and herb sauce.

Sirloing of Beef, Stanley: sirloin roasted over mirepoix (usually chopped carrots, onions and celery), served with a horseradish cream sauce and pieces of banana(!).

Croquettes St. Lambert: pyramid shaped croquettes made out of chicken and mixed chopped vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, string beans and peas, sometimes with an artichoke heart at the base.

Sweetbread Glace, Jardinere: served with lots of lightly flavored vegetables.

Potage St. Germain: cream of fresh pea soup.

Foie d'oie al Salpicon: goose liver chopped with diced vegetables.

Poulardes et Gigot de chevreuil rotis: roasted young chicken and venison.

Consomme Princesse: consomme served with shredded chicken and green peas.

On preview, jedicus has faster fingers.
posted by Orange Dinosaur Slide at 7:19 AM on January 27, 2016 [15 favorites]


What ever happened to pineapple ice-cream?
posted by Splunge at 7:21 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


Entree: Green Apple Fritters, Rum Sauce.

Yes, please.
posted by Cool Papa Bell at 7:23 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


Poulardes et Gigot de chevreuil rotis

Ah, yeah, my definitions were off for some of these because of lack of context. Gigot by itself may mean a leg of mutton (or lamb or veal), but Gigot de chevreuil is definitely venison, specifically from a roe deer.
posted by jedicus at 7:26 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Those dishes sound a lot more appetizing with the definitions added!

Would diners have been expected to recognize and understand those terms?
posted by notyou at 7:26 AM on January 27, 2016


Room 641-A: "Now that I think about it, I call the chocolate ones jimmies and the rainbow ones sprinkles."

This is the only correct and morally right way to do it.
posted by Rock Steady at 7:34 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


la Parisienne: dishes with a garnish of potato balls fried in herb butter and vegetables, often including artichoke hearts; poached fish with mushrooms and truffles in white wine sauce, surrounded by crayfish; chicken consommé with macédoine of vegetables, rounds of royale, and chervil; sauce blonde; a method of serving potatoes

Drooling.

I was thinking about how much more appetizing this sounds with the description. This reminds me of the current trend I hate, which is ultra-brief menu items that just say things like:

BEEF SHOULDER | CARROTS | PARSLEY
DUCK | WILD RICE
posted by Solon and Thanks at 7:48 AM on January 27, 2016 [5 favorites]


I feel like there needs to be a distinction between the generic veggies-before-a-meal tradition and The Canonical Relish Tray.

Like, yes, everywhere in the US you'll see people put out carrot sticks or green pepper strips or broccoli florets or whatever, often with hummus or some kind of dip (or ranch dressing, let's be honest), often with pita or chips too.

But The Relish Tray — the canonical trinity of carrots, celery and radishes, always all three (even if nobody in the family really likes radishes), never with dip, never with bread or chips alongside, and usually served with a big family meal (to the point where it starts to feel like a special sign of a modest-but-festive occasion, like getting out the second-nicest china or bringing up a bottle of sparkling grape juice from the basement) — is not a thing I've seen outside the upper/midlands Midwest. My wife's family, from central Illinois, does it. Some of my friends' families where I was raised in Michigan did it, but mostly it was families who'd been in the area for a few generations. My parents who grew up on Long Island had no idea, and neither did any of the other families from out of town that I knew growing up.
posted by nebulawindphone at 7:54 AM on January 27, 2016 [8 favorites]


Okay, I had heard the term "alligator pear" from...something early in life and never thought it was an avocado! That's so interesting.
posted by xingcat at 7:58 AM on January 27, 2016


Avocados have a long history of amusing names, apparently the original name for them translates as "testicle"

Yes! In multiple languages! Ahuacatl is both "avocado" and "testicle" in Nahuatl, the language of the Aztec empire. And most Mayan languages have the same word for "avocado" and "testicle" too (ooj in K'ichee', um in Chol, oon or on in some Western Mayan languages, all from something like *oonh in proto-Maya if I remember right).

Don't go to grad school, kids, it's very bad for you.
posted by nebulawindphone at 8:01 AM on January 27, 2016 [12 favorites]


Now that I think about it, I call the chocolate ones jimmies and the rainbow ones sprinkles.

Thirding this as just Good English.
posted by Mchelly at 8:01 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


The relish tray: One of my first jobs was as a dishwasher/kitchen-helper-outer at a "steakhouse" in Bridgeport, Ca (eastern side of the Sierras) which served a relish tray -- julienne carrots and celery, radish flowers, a couple of black olives. Every table got one just as they sat. That was one of my jobs, prepping the veggies for the relish tray, tossing them together on little steel platters when the waiters called for them.

So, still a thing as recently as the end of the 20th Century.
posted by notyou at 8:16 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


Poulardes et Gigot de chevreuil rotis

Chicken and venison, with the current copy of the Wall Street Journal, served ouvert à la page éditoriale.
 
posted by Herodios at 8:27 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Grew up in Florida, moved to St. Louis. Never heard of "jimmies" until this thread.
posted by Foosnark at 8:31 AM on January 27, 2016


Okay, I had heard the term "alligator pear" from...something early in life and never thought it was an avocado!

That's why they's so mean.
 
posted by Herodios at 8:35 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Had dinner at Keen's Steakhouse in NYC recently and while i wasnt that surprised to see raw celery, carrots, radishes and olives served on our arrival to the table because the place is old school like that, im not sure exactly why there was crushed ice sprinkled over them.
posted by Exceptional_Hubris at 8:48 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


Don't go to grad school, kids, it's very bad for you.

Lookit me, I'm a grad student!

posted by leotrotsky at 9:01 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


OK look, the ones shaped like this . are hundreds and thousands. The ones like this - and the novelty ones are sprinkles. The ones like this o are sugar pearls or non-pariels and the big chocolate lumps coated in sugar are dragees.

I hope that is clear.
posted by HypotheticalWoman at 9:05 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


Maybe when average people started serving plates of radishes, fancy restaurants stopped because it wasn't fancy anymore.

That's close, but backwards. Celery was once a status symbol. It was difficult to grow, and therefore not easy to come by. As its cultivation got easier, it became more common, and average people could finally afford to buy it for home. Filthy light thief did an excellent post on celery a couple years ago.

Mushroom ketchup! I'M SO CURIOUS.

Mushroom ketchup. Walnut ketchup.

Walnut and mushroom ketchup rabbit holes.
posted by mudpuppie at 9:47 AM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]


notyou:
Would diners have been expected to recognize and understand those terms?

I think many did as a matter of course. Escoffier was hugely influential during that era, formalizing and popularizing French cuisine and revolutionizing restaurants in upscale hotels like the Ritz and the Savoy. He himself was a celebrity. He created dishes for royalty, famous opera stars and actors. Put Escoffier in a story and your newspaper would sell.

The rest was good marketing. Velouté de poulet sounds much fancier than cream of chicken soup.
posted by Orange Dinosaur Slide at 9:49 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


MetaFilter: Filthy light thief did an excellent post on celery a couple years ago.
posted by Rock Steady at 9:50 AM on January 27, 2016 [9 favorites]


Celery, radishes and olives

Yeah, Americans of a century ago liked minstrel shows, child labor, and not letting women vote too. Probably bear baiting. There's not much I'd put past someone who likes radishes, celery, and olives.
posted by Naberius at 9:51 AM on January 27, 2016 [2 favorites]


Had dinner at Keen's Steakhouse in NYC recently and while i wasnt that surprised to see raw celery, carrots, radishes and olives served on our arrival to the table because the place is old school like that, im not sure exactly why there was crushed ice sprinkled over them.

Another throwback to celery, etc., being status symbols. In the 19th century, after refrigerated box cars made their debut, ice became available year-round and in any climate. That right there was a novelty and a luxury.
posted by mudpuppie at 9:52 AM on January 27, 2016 [3 favorites]


Working at an ice cream shop in high school, I was utterly confused the one time I heard someone ask for "jimmies" as one of their toppings. I just stood there with a blank look on my face as the customer kept repeating this unknown word and expecting me to do something. Finally he pointed out what he meant and I put the sprinkles on his order. But that's the only time I've heard "jimmies" used in the wild. This was in Tulsa, OK, so if we're building a sprinkles/jimmies map Oklahoma is firmly sprinkles territory.
posted by downtohisturtles at 10:26 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


Jimmies

RIP Brigham's
posted by Rock Steady at 10:33 AM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


My grandmother, who would be in her late 80s if she were alive, always entertained us by first putting out a bowl of radishes, celery, and carrots. Sometimes, given the season, a bunch of vidalia onions in a glass of water with a big plate of salt for dipping. I wonder if the thing in the OP comes from the same tradition?
posted by codacorolla at 11:14 AM on January 27, 2016


mudpuppie: "Had dinner at Keen's Steakhouse in NYC recently and while i wasnt that surprised to see raw celery, carrots, radishes and olives served on our arrival to the table because the place is old school like that, im not sure exactly why there was crushed ice sprinkled over them.

Another throwback to celery, etc., being status symbols. In the 19th century, after refrigerated box cars made their debut, ice became available year-round and in any climate. That right there was a novelty and a luxury.
"

Wouldn't it also keep them fresh and crisp?
posted by Splunge at 11:30 AM on January 27, 2016


I approve of alligator pears.
posted by Flipping_Hades_Terwilliger at 12:05 PM on January 27, 2016


For anyone visiting southern Ontario, and who might be nostalgic for the relish tray, you might enjoy dining at the Erie Beach Hotel in Port Dover.


Their relish tray (more of a cart, actually) includes the standard carrots, celery, olives, and radishes, as well as pickled gherkins, pickled beets, pickled pumpkin, and horseradish jello salad.

Also, celery bread!
posted by TheWhiteSkull at 12:24 PM on January 27, 2016 [4 favorites]


I can't imagine a big family holiday meal without a plate of celery, carrots, radishes, olives, and gherkins on the table.

Olives must be green and stuffed with pimento, but black olives, dill pickles, and green onions are optional additions. When we are feeling really fancy, there is also some celery stuffed with cream cheese to go with the plain celery.

When I was young, we always ate radishes with butter and salt. I haven't done or seen that in at least 30 years. Is this still a thing?
posted by fimbulvetr at 12:32 PM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


fimbulvetr: " When we are feeling really fancy, there is also some celery stuffed with cream cheese to go with the plain celery."

Well if we're gonna go crazy. Ants on a log.
posted by Splunge at 1:22 PM on January 27, 2016


Rock Steady: Jimmies
"Around the Boston area the most common term used for chocolate sprinkles is "jimmies." "
Oh!! Normally I am loath to cross-post like this, but yesterday I posted a parody of movies set in Boston, and one scene had a very obvious, deliberate mention of jimmies. I assumed it was a reference to a famous scene from a movie I hadn't seen, but I guess it's this whole thing. Cool.
posted by Room 641-A at 1:37 PM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


When I was young, we always ate radishes with butter and salt. I haven't done or seen that in at least 30 years. Is this still a thing?

Yep! It's a pretty common French appetizer, and I'm seeing it more on menus when radishes are in season as people try to use seasonal vegetables
posted by The Whelk at 1:55 PM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


Yeah, I hadn't heard of radishes with butter and salt until I met someone who'd spent time in France, but when I've "introduced" people with more sophisticated, non-mid-western US histories to them, they've already had them. Those French, it's like they know something about food!
posted by ldthomps at 2:38 PM on January 27, 2016


Wouldn't it also keep them fresh and crisp?

If the celery and/or radishes served to you in a steakhouse go from fresh and crisp to not-so-fresh and un-crisp in the amount of time it takes you to eat dinner at that steakhouse, you are eating at the wrong steakhouse.
posted by mudpuppie at 2:42 PM on January 27, 2016


For much of the 1900s, restaurant-goers would start their meal with a plate of celery, radishes and olives. When I was a kid in rural Iowa, this was still a very common practice. The Cove Restaurant served theirs with a cheese spread and crackers that I still dream about.
posted by Foam Pants at 2:43 PM on January 27, 2016


Thanks for the link - I am enjoying this article very much.

Am I the only one who is getting site warnings from McAfee when clicking on the "Click to view the menu in full size" links?
posted by tallmiddleagedgeek at 4:16 PM on January 27, 2016


You know what I miss? The crispy noodles you used to get a Chinese restaurants.
posted by Room 641-A at 4:24 PM on January 27, 2016


the ones shaped like this . are hundreds and thousands.
Wait, what? I had no idea those things had a name - we always just called them "dots." Am I the only one who's never heard of the name hundreds and thousands? Could this be another geographic division thing?

NYC metro-area born and raised. They were always sprinkles. Never heard them called jimmies until college, and only then in the context of "you know what they call these things out West?"
posted by Guernsey Halleck at 4:34 PM on January 27, 2016


I can't imagine a big family holiday meal without a plate of celery, carrots, radishes, olives, and gherkins on the table.

I've never had this, but the current fad for pickled vegetables and artisanal olives as appetizers makes me feel like we're judge a smidge from bringing it back.
posted by Solon and Thanks at 4:39 PM on January 27, 2016


Guernsey Halleck - I suspect it's a UK thing, actually.
posted by HypotheticalWoman at 4:53 PM on January 27, 2016


might enjoy dining at the Erie Beach Hotel in Port Dover

And fried pickerel and perch!

I never heard sprinkles called jimmies up here in Canada. My older friends refer to condoms as jimmies so keep that in mind when you request sprinkles. But my favorite name for "chocolate" sprinkles was used by some Dutch friends - mouse shit.
posted by Ashwagandha at 5:54 PM on January 27, 2016


And way up in the cold north we had our crudité plates as well - celery (special occasions only!), radishes, carrots, cucumber cut into coins, and green onions as well as pickled beets, gherkins, maybe pickled cauliflower and depending on what we were eating maybe ketchup aux fruits / ketchup maison. We had some variation of that for nearly ever meal, however, the size of the offerings varied with what we had and the occasion.
posted by Ashwagandha at 6:14 PM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


a fiendish thingy: I love reading about all the different kinds of ketchup that people used to regularly make, because "ketchup" was a preparation method, not the name of a food. Walnut ketchup! Mushroom ketchup! I'M SO CURIOUS.

I made a post on the history of fish sauce, um stale beer, er ketchup/catsup sauce (and hamburgers), too. In case a weird rabbit hole about the history of celery consumption wasn't enough.
posted by filthy light thief at 9:23 PM on January 27, 2016


Crispy noodles are definitely still available in Chinese restaurants in Ohio.
posted by Small Dollar at 11:53 PM on January 27, 2016 [1 favorite]


I'm not sure you could write "Boiled Ham" on a fancy menu these days and get people's interest.

Didn't hams used to be much more salty than they are now? I think boiling would be the way you would make those pre-refrigeration hams edible.
posted by Bee'sWing at 2:25 AM on January 28, 2016 [1 favorite]


Boiled ham is a regional term for hamburgers. From upstate New York. Utica.
posted by maxsparber at 7:08 AM on January 28, 2016 [2 favorites]


Er, Albany.
posted by maxsparber at 7:11 AM on January 28, 2016 [2 favorites]


Oh, wow, I just noticed that the ship serving the boiled ham is The Lusitania.
posted by Room 641-A at 7:40 AM on January 28, 2016


They call them boiled hams despite the fact that they have obviously been grilled?
posted by Rock Steady at 7:55 AM on January 28, 2016


And I can't think of boiled ham without thinking about its natural by-product, hot ham water.
posted by Rock Steady at 7:57 AM on January 28, 2016 [1 favorite]


They call them boiled hams despite the fact that they have obviously been grilled?

That's just the aurora borealis.
posted by maxsparber at 8:01 AM on January 28, 2016 [1 favorite]


At this latitude? At this time of year? Localized entirely to your kitchen?

OK, that's enough
posted by Rock Steady at 8:11 AM on January 28, 2016 [1 favorite]


Presumably, you could leave the rib rack attached to the belly meat and make "bacon" from the whole subprimal by curing and smoking, and then cut it along the bones like giant rib chops or something.

You have given me such a wonderful idea. Gonna suggest it to chef when I shake this fucking flu.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 7:54 PM on January 28, 2016 [1 favorite]


Locally, we have a bacon with bones that is called kaiser speck that's a little different then the usual way I've seen Kaiser speck done which is deboned and made from the leg (that's how I've seen it done anyways - I'm sure the butchers out there can correct me). Ours looks like it is from side pork, is slightly smoked and cured and definitely features bones & decent amount of fat. The bones make it hard to slice nicely but it is mighty tasty. Some people eat it uncooked but I usually cook it like regular bacon
posted by Ashwagandha at 9:27 AM on January 29, 2016


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