Tomato, dairy, cut of meat? Feuds started over less
January 18, 2017 7:55 PM Subscribe
In Search of Ragu - Matt Goulding (Roads & Kingdoms) The beauty of ragu is that it’s an idea as much as it is a recipe, a slow-simmered distillation of what means and circumstances have gifted you: If Zia Peppe’s ragu is made with nothing but pork scraps, that’s because her neighbor raises pigs. When Maria cooks her vegetables in a mix of oil and butter, it’s because her family comes from a long line of dairy farmers. When Nonna Anna’s slips a few laurel leaves into the pot, she plucks them from the tree outside her back door. There is no need for a decree from the Chamber of Commerce to tell these women what qualifies as the authentic ragu; what’s authentic is whatever is simmering under the lid.
[...] a pasta so dense with egg yolk it looks a sunset run through a paper shredder.
I like this article already.
posted by jason_steakums at 8:36 PM on January 18, 2017 [2 favorites]
I like this article already.
posted by jason_steakums at 8:36 PM on January 18, 2017 [2 favorites]
La Grassa. The fat one. Bologna has earned its nickname like no other place on earth. The old city is awash in excess calories, a medieval fortress town fortified with golden mountains of starch and red cannons of animal fat, where ... menus moan under the weight of their meat- and cheese-burdened offerings.
You've seen the Big Apple and the Big Easy; welcome now to the Big Greasy.
posted by Greg_Ace at 8:47 PM on January 18, 2017 [1 favorite]
You've seen the Big Apple and the Big Easy; welcome now to the Big Greasy.
posted by Greg_Ace at 8:47 PM on January 18, 2017 [1 favorite]
Despite the incipient sense of a gout attack coming on just from reading that article, I'm ready to emigrate to Italy tomorrow.
posted by Greg_Ace at 10:15 PM on January 18, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by Greg_Ace at 10:15 PM on January 18, 2017 [1 favorite]
I used to work for a man from Torino, who told me that there was a tradition that before a woman gets married, she's supposed to prepare her family's ragu recipe for her intended husband. If he enjoys it, that's an auspicious sign for the marriage. If he can't choke it down, then the wedding is a bad idea.
He also bragged to me that his family's recipe contains no tomatoes, which according to him meant that it pre-dated the introduction of tomatoes to Italy from the New World.
posted by The Pluto Gangsta at 10:43 PM on January 18, 2017 [4 favorites]
He also bragged to me that his family's recipe contains no tomatoes, which according to him meant that it pre-dated the introduction of tomatoes to Italy from the New World.
posted by The Pluto Gangsta at 10:43 PM on January 18, 2017 [4 favorites]
Delicious article!
I think the long-slow cooking is what really makes the difference between a true North Italian ragu and the stuff millions of people all over Europe and North America grow up with. That and far less tomato.
If you don't have the time, this is where the pressure cooker really shows its worth.
posted by mumimor at 1:59 AM on January 19, 2017 [2 favorites]
I think the long-slow cooking is what really makes the difference between a true North Italian ragu and the stuff millions of people all over Europe and North America grow up with. That and far less tomato.
If you don't have the time, this is where the pressure cooker really shows its worth.
posted by mumimor at 1:59 AM on January 19, 2017 [2 favorites]
Yes, this brought back memories of my landlady in 2nd year engineering, who was from Bologna. I learnt how to make ragu from her.
posted by infini at 2:58 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by infini at 2:58 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
Even as a fervent pressure cooker owner, I'd never recommend that over a heavy pan on a medium heat.
posted by infini at 2:59 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by infini at 2:59 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
Four hours on the stove at least. AT LEAST.
posted by lydhre at 3:13 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by lydhre at 3:13 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
Heston Blumenthal overthinks a plate of bolognese
posted by wabbittwax at 4:23 AM on January 19, 2017 [5 favorites]
posted by wabbittwax at 4:23 AM on January 19, 2017 [5 favorites]
I've been hearing good things about using a dutch oven in the oven....
posted by mikelieman at 4:45 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by mikelieman at 4:45 AM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
Heston Blumenthal overthinks a plate of bolognese
It looks delicious, and he is so good about recreating spagbol, not actual ragu bolognese. But there is also a French touch to this that I find at once endearing and infuriating. We talked about it today at home: why is it that the French eat pasta as a side? This obviously leads to several sick strategies, such as washing the pasta, putting butter or oil on the pasta, and styling the pasta. I could feel the taste evaporate with each iteration.
posted by mumimor at 1:02 PM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
It looks delicious, and he is so good about recreating spagbol, not actual ragu bolognese. But there is also a French touch to this that I find at once endearing and infuriating. We talked about it today at home: why is it that the French eat pasta as a side? This obviously leads to several sick strategies, such as washing the pasta, putting butter or oil on the pasta, and styling the pasta. I could feel the taste evaporate with each iteration.
posted by mumimor at 1:02 PM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
Fine Cooking did a ragu section a few years ago that I tore out and kept around to remind me that there's more you can do with pasta than red sauce. I make the Abruzzo one when I can get game, and the Veneto one when I can get duck or goose.
posted by Kreiger at 1:30 PM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by Kreiger at 1:30 PM on January 19, 2017 [1 favorite]
« Older Tight as a Boiled Owl | A short but excellent piece by the Southern... Newer »
This thread has been archived and is closed to new comments
posted by The Toad at 8:19 PM on January 18, 2017 [1 favorite]