walking taco, walking Frito pie, Petro; cf. Dorilocos, Tostilocos
December 4, 2020 8:01 AM   Subscribe

Oaxacans, Mormons, And A Bag Of Chips: A Brief History Of The Walking Taco (Heavy Table): You might as well know, right at the outset, that Alice Waters does not approve of walking tacos. [...] But I can’t help but wince at her broader critique: “As perfect a symbol of a broken culture as I can imagine.” Because while a walking taco may not be, like, good for you in a nutritionist-approved way, if you look at the deeper cultural perspective, it turns out there’s much to savor—it’s less about how things fall apart than how they come together.
posted by not_the_water (61 comments total) 26 users marked this as a favorite
 
Throughout my neck of the woods, Walking Tacos have, for ages, been a staple of concession stands at damned near any kids' sports outings, from t-ball and pee-wee soccer, up to high-school softball tournaments.

Sadly, I haven't actually partaken of the meal. Not out of any snobbery, mind you. I'm just not a big eater at such events. Sitting on my butt in the hot sun, digesting a bag of Fritos and (inevitably) greasy chili just ain't my thing.
posted by Thorzdad at 8:42 AM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


Wow, how have I never heard of this dish?? I would go to town on a bag of nachos.
posted by muddgirl at 8:43 AM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


As it happens, back in 1986, Frito-Lay hired a historian to research this, a man named Ed “Chill Lee” Paetzel (say the nickname out loud). According to his findings, the origins of Frito pie probably go back to Daisy Dean Doolin, the mother of Elmer Doolin, the founder of the Frito company (though it was a Oaxacan immigrant named Gustavo Olquin who created the Frito chip itself). Ms. Doolin was known to tinker with recipes involving the chips, including an early effort called—take note, holiday-season bakers—“Fritos Fruit Cake,” which included “candied fruits, pecans and crushed Fritos,” according to an excellent history published by Smithsonian a few years back.
I enjoyed every word of this paragraph.

Fun variations:
+ Tuna salad plus fixins in a bag of kettle-cooked sour-cream-and-onion chips
+ BBQ pulled pork and diced pickles (plus whatever else you want) in a bag of kettle-cooked sea-salt-and-pepper chips
+ Chana masala in a bag of pita chips

Also - Alice? What a snotty thing to say.
posted by Caxton1476 at 8:53 AM on December 4, 2020 [16 favorites]


I encountered the term 'walking taco' for the first time last week, when I watched Yes, God, Yes. Now, here it is again.

When this kind of thing happens, I usually suspect sinister advertising machinations of some sort. Because although I understand statistics fairly well, for a human, I'm still a human, with a human's bias toward agency as a cause.
posted by gurple at 8:55 AM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


I haven't eaten Walking Tacos, because I ate enough Fritos as a kid for the rest of my life, but Dorilocos are awesome.

The author also wrote 'The Not-Quite States of America,' which I greatly enjoyed. And the article links to Eater's United States of Mexican Food (previously), which is simply delightful. Thanks for this post.
posted by box at 9:02 AM on December 4, 2020 [4 favorites]


Bless you Alice Waters but the idea of her wringing her hands over some delicious portable snack food is just too much.

The Santa Fe frito pie history is legit. I won't go so far as to argue it was the origin, but it sure was an important food fixture for decades. And being Santa Fe the chile had some real kick. The ones I had in the 90s were more Tex-Mex style than New Mexican, red chile with beef, not green chile or red chile with pork. But much spicier than you'd find in a Minnesota state fair.

I wish someone would add cheese curds to Frito pie, sort of a poutine mashup.
posted by Nelson at 9:05 AM on December 4, 2020 [8 favorites]


I mean, I would have eaten this with glee anyways, but knowing that it would annoy Alice Waters is just icing on the cake/sour cream on my frito pie.

(I recognize that she has done wonderful things for food and the culture around it, but this isn't the first time she'd been a giant, unbearable snob about it all.)
posted by kalimac at 9:07 AM on December 4, 2020 [15 favorites]


I'm going to give Alice Waters the benefit of the doubt and presume that the broken culture she refers to is not the walking taco but rather the school lunch system. The longer quote that appears in the article seems to suggest this interpretation:
Parked in the middle of the asphalt, this building sold soda pop to the children during their recess and lunch hour, and it also sold something called a “walking taco,” which is as perfect a symbol of a broken culture as I can imagine. Opening a plastic bag of mass-produced corn chips, the food workers would simply pour in a kind of beef-and-tomato slurry from a can. The kids would then walk away, with no connection to one another.
It seems like the walking taco may have in some respects inspired the Edible Schoolyard.
posted by box at 9:08 AM on December 4, 2020 [11 favorites]


The last time (and first time in years) I had a legit walking taco was in a thrift store in a rural town that also had a snack stand. My friend was horrified but I was ABSOLUTELY going to get a thrift store bag of Fritos and chili for $1. It was great.

I take that back, just before ~all of this~ I was in Mexico City and saw someone in Chapultepec Park selling dorilocos out of the bag and jumped right on that.
posted by jeweled accumulation at 9:09 AM on December 4, 2020 [4 favorites]


Nelson: 'I wish someone would add cheese curds to Frito pie, sort of a poutine mashup.

Ha the first time I had something like this was at the CNE (Toronto's version of a state fair), and it was from a Poutine place. It had cheese and was on Doritos but was otherwise reasonably standard and they called it "Taco in a bag"
posted by cirhosis at 9:13 AM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


Oh wow and having read the actual article now, my mind is a little blown by one of the first Midwest references being in the Grand Rapids Festival in 1994, because I lived there then and definitely remember walking tacos being a sensation around that time! We were all very impressed with the ingenuity, I definitely got one there.
posted by jeweled accumulation at 9:16 AM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


I had hopes this was about Tacroach.
posted by one for the books at 9:16 AM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


As a kid in the 70s, fritos and toppings on a plate was called a Haystack...which is old 1950s style cookbook wizardry. Keeping it all in the bag seems like a logical next step.
posted by th3ph17 at 9:17 AM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


I used to work for a statewide school gardening program, and Waters’s The Edible Schoolyard (where the quote comes from) was one of the books on our reading list. We sometimes gave copies to participating teachers. There’s a lot of good stuff in it, but there’s also some real white upper-middle-class prejudice to wade through. There are a lot more unhealthy foods in schools than the walking taco, especially since ingredients can vary. And you have to walk a line between “is it healthy?” and “is it familiar enough that the kids want to eat it?”

I had to look up the menu from the old Casa de Fritos restaurant at Disneyland to see if they served it there, but the closest thing seems to be Frito Chili Pie served in a dish.
posted by The Underpants Monster at 9:29 AM on December 4, 2020 [8 favorites]


Great article! We have this bougie walking taco place in Chicago called Taco in a Bag and it is really excessive and really, undeniably, outrageously delicious.
posted by merriment at 10:00 AM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


I grew up in Arkansas, and on the drive from my town to the town where my parents were from we'd always stop at this little roadside food shack for Frito Chili Pies (i.e. a walking taco). A bag of Fritos, laid lengthwise in a paper french fry tray, package slit down the middle and spread open like a baked potato, will all the fixins piled on top. My god I loved those things, they were always a highlight of those drives.

Here in San Francisco there used to be a similarly tiny restaurant, Chili Pie, that made mostly sweet pastry pies but also, of course, Frito Chili Pies (with vegan chili and everything). I was sad when they closed, but happy that their big sister restaurant Green Chili Kitchen across town, still served them. The day I got married, that's where we went for our celebratory dinner and drinks. GCK closed a little over a year ago, and I didn't find out until it was too late. Sigh.

Fortunately, a Frito Chili Pie is easy peasy to make and customize at home. Long live the FCP! RIP Southside Dairy Bar and Green Chili Kitchen and Chili Pies!
posted by late afternoon dreaming hotel at 10:18 AM on December 4, 2020



Great article! We have this bougie walking taco place in Chicago called Taco in a Bag and it is really excessive and really, undeniably, outrageously delicious.

Sadly, like so many things and people, a casualty of the coronavirus.
posted by We put our faith in Blast Hardcheese at 10:26 AM on December 4, 2020


I was at the National Restaurant Show a couple of years ago and there was a line of people stacked up at the Pepsi booth. Were they waiting to get a sample of some new hipster cola?

Hell, no! They all wanted walking tacos. Now available at a gas station near you.
posted by JoeZydeco at 10:36 AM on December 4, 2020


I did a project in Assuit, Egypt, while in grad school and asked a local colleague about where to get a tea and some food to eat while walking for 20 minutes to the lab building . He was surprised and said people don’t walk and eat here, and something like “why would you do that?” He patiently explained that people sit down when they eat. The idea of having a portable meal doesn’t translate across all cultures. Granted, walking tacos don’t have to be eaten while walking, but their name does, I won’t say downgrade, but set a limit them to their status.
posted by waving at 10:43 AM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


“Schoentrup called it a “Petro,” a play on petroleum” [...] “Schoentrop also sold plain, unadorned bags of Fritos as “Unleaded Petros”” 😆
posted by oulipian at 10:44 AM on December 4, 2020


These are practically crying out to be up-marketed and turned into a “kit” that can be mailed to corporate team members as a “socially distant team bonding activity” over a video call with a suitably energetic host.
posted by aramaic at 11:05 AM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


That was a fun article and I do like a walking taco (though in my family it's usually your choice of regular corn chips or cheese Doritos, not Fritos) and they're awesome for camping or picnics no matter what Alice Waters says.

The big takeaway for me is that Frito Pie and Walking Taco are the same thing! I've only read about Frito Pie before and haven't ever seen it. I never thought to look up exactly what it was. I thought I was close from context. I didn't assume it was some elaborate thing but I also didn't think it was just a walking taco. Mind blown.
posted by Clinging to the Wreckage at 11:07 AM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


Ms. Doolin was known to tinker with recipes involving the chips, including an early effort called—take note, holiday-season bakers—“Fritos Fruit Cake,” which included “candied fruits, pecans and crushed Fritos,” according to an excellent history published by Smithsonian a few years back
Oh yeah! It is on: https://grubamericana.com/recipes-2/desserts-2/cakescupcakes/fritos-fruit-cake/
posted by 3j0hn at 11:25 AM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


I'm trying to think of similar crisp packet meals for other parts of the world. You pull over to the side of the road because there's a lovely view of the sea, and a man selling snacks from a caravan. It's far too chill and windy for a Cornetto, but the man's selling Heinz beans and a chopped up rasher poured into a Monster Munch packet.
Or the antipodean 'Bill English' - pizza flavour Shapes topped with tinned spaghetti and a snag?
I do think something could/should be done with chunks of mango and/or pineapple served in a bag of Takis.
posted by bartleby at 11:34 AM on December 4, 2020 [5 favorites]


+ Tuna salad plus fixins in a bag of kettle-cooked sour-cream-and-onion chips

You mad genius.
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 11:34 AM on December 4, 2020 [8 favorites]


+ Tuna salad plus fixins in a bag of kettle-cooked sour-cream-and-onion chips
Oh right, forgot I used to do something like this for lunch sometimes!
On your way to a nice park bench, stop by the deli counter and get a little container of tuna- or chicken- or egg-salad, a bag of chips to scoop it up with, and something fizzy to drink. Favored pairings are:
Tuna salad with Sun Chips, either French Onion or Cheddar flavor
Chicken salad with Doritos (original red bag)
Egg salad with Lay's kettle cooked salt & black pepper chips.
posted by bartleby at 11:51 AM on December 4, 2020 [4 favorites]


I had never heard of a walking taco until I moved to Iowa, and it's still not really my thing. I am completely lacking in manual dexterity, and that looks like a recipe for dropping taco meat on yourself. But lots of people I know love them. And hoo boy, is Alice Waters predictably joyless.
posted by ArbitraryAndCapricious at 11:56 AM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


Dangit, y’all! You have just made me add Frito pie fixins to my next grocery run!

The salinity! The salinity!
posted by darkstar at 11:58 AM on December 4, 2020 [4 favorites]


This sounds so delicious!

The closest I've come to this is a Frito Pie stand my now-partner/then-boyfriend took me to when we were first dating. It was in the Houston, TX Latinx neighborhood he grew up in and had been there for as long as he could remember. I swear it was one of the most delicious culinary experiences of my life. I was so enthralled I had to take my mom to that same stand (being more of the Alice Waters type, it wasn't her cup of tea). I still think about 20+ years later.
posted by treepour at 12:12 PM on December 4, 2020


Heavy Table is a great local food blog that was just recently resurrected after a multi-year hiatus. The media landscape in the Twin Cities has suffered a few big blows in the last few months the biggest of which was the shuttering of City Pages. On a smaller scale but still a blow to food reporting was the closing of the Growler. James Norton was an editor at the Growler and is the founder of the Heavy Table which accounts for its relaunch.

One is their more interesting features is a restaurant-by-restaurant review of streets in the Twin Cities that have heavy immigrant populations. They are currently re-doing East Lake Street which recently was the focus of much of the destruction during the George Floyd unrest. Floyd’s murder was just a few blocks off of Lake Street. The reviews feature great illustrations and lots and lots of tacos. Really worth the read.
posted by misterpatrick at 12:20 PM on December 4, 2020 [5 favorites]


(though in my family it's usually your choice of regular corn chips or cheese Doritos, not Fritos)

What are “regular corn chips” if not Fritos? Tortilla chips?

Also, I just remembered we used to eat potato salad on potato chips as if it was dip.
posted by The Underpants Monster at 12:39 PM on December 4, 2020


Before I RTFA, I was gonna come in here and drop the amazingness that is Petro's Chili & Chips. Then, I read the article. And let me tell you, I miss very few things about living in East Tn, but the inevitable trip to Petros while at the mall is cornerstone of my youth. Add in the Big Orange tea and my tastebuds are reeling with memories.
posted by teleri025 at 12:57 PM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


What are “regular corn chips” if not Fritos? Tortilla chips?

Yeah, I suppose Fritos are a kind of "regular corn chips" but I meant tortilla chips which are bigger and usually far less salty/greasy.
posted by Clinging to the Wreckage at 12:58 PM on December 4, 2020


I'm going to go the other way and substitute a bag of Takis for Fritos because 2020 was a rough year.
posted by cazoo at 1:04 PM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


I do think something could/should be done with chunks of mango and/or pineapple served in a bag of Takis.

Ohhh my god yes.

I had never heard of walking tacos and I am enthralled by the concept. I'm amazed they don't seem to have come to NYC yet. Someone is gonna make a killing bringing that concept here. Imagine the halal cart version!

I was familiar with Frito pie in the form of a casserole, but it sounds from this article as if the bagged variety might actually predate the casserole variety, which blows my mind.
posted by showbiz_liz at 1:37 PM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


a) first of all, I thought from the FPP that it was Alice WALKER, not Alice Waters, and I wondered why she had anything particular to say about walking tacos.

b) walking tacos are fun for camping. Tasty little meal, easy disposal.
posted by dlugoczaj at 2:11 PM on December 4, 2020 [6 favorites]


I encountered the term 'walking taco' for the first time last week, when I watched Yes, God, Yes. Now, here it is again.

When I first learned of the Baader-Meinhof effect I started seeing it everywhere.
posted by sjswitzer at 2:27 PM on December 4, 2020 [12 favorites]


Fritos are a different texture, color, and flavor than regular corn tortilla. Among other things Fritos are not nixtamalized; I can't tell you how that changes the flavor, but it's different processing. The main thing I note is that that Fritos tend to be cooked darker than the usual tortilla chips and have an almost-but-not-quite burnt flavor.

Fritos are Tex-Mex croutons.
posted by Nelson at 2:33 PM on December 4, 2020 [3 favorites]


I once heard Ryan Davis refer to these as Traveling Tacos (well, Travelin' Tacos) and I've used that name exclusively ever since. The alliteration is just perfect.
posted by introp at 3:18 PM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


This is the first time I've encountered "walking tacos," though I remember my mother being fond of "Frito pie" years ago -- which seems to have been the same concept, but served in a paper french-fry tray (and without the bag).

The idea of eating wet ingredients from a chip bag isn't appealing to me, but I can see how there's an element of fun in it.
posted by Annabelle74 at 3:20 PM on December 4, 2020


I’m in the southeast (NC) and have never even heard of these. Anyone know if they have made it to this part of the country?
posted by freecellwizard at 3:26 PM on December 4, 2020


I eat walking tacos my first night of every camping trip, either with my family or with my Girl Scout troop. You can do almost all the prep at home, so by the time you've set up the campsite nobody has to deal with complicated cooking -- just reheat the taco meat and you're good to go, with very little cleanup. They're also great because my Girl Scout troop has people who variously avoid red meat, gluten, dairy, nuts, eggs, and pork, so everyone can make their own version as they see fit. They can be made very cheaply, which is important when you're paying for everything with money you made by selling Thin Mints.

Alice Waters is welcome to come camping with us and see just how much connection we have with each other over our walking tacos.
posted by The corpse in the library at 3:44 PM on December 4, 2020 [9 favorites]


> This is the first time I've encountered "walking tacos," though I remember my mother being fond of "Frito pie" years ago -- which seems to have been the same concept, but served in a paper french-fry tray (and without the bag).

Yes, Frito Pie and Walking Tacos are related but not identical. (Fritos vs Doritos, to begin with, although some people do use Fritos in their Walking Tacos.)
posted by The corpse in the library at 3:46 PM on December 4, 2020


I thought from the FPP that it was Alice WALKER, not Alice Waters, and I wondered why she had anything particular to say about walking tacos.

Who knows more about walking than a walker?
posted by The Underpants Monster at 4:20 PM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


Reporting in: am now enjoying a bowl of Frito pie, thanks to this discussion thread.

Thanks Obama MeFi!
posted by darkstar at 5:31 PM on December 4, 2020 [5 favorites]


I'd heard of these for years, but always in the context of midwest fairs; I hadn't realized they were more widespread than that. I'd definitely eat this if offered, if for no other reason than that Alice Waters disapproves.
posted by Dip Flash at 6:09 PM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


I was a kid in the 70s in Austin, Texas and have distinct memories of Frito Pie being served in my school cafeteria. Chili and cheese, not taco meat.
posted by not.so.hip at 6:17 PM on December 4, 2020


Never heard the term walking taco. But we did have a casual restaurant in Chicago called Taco in a Bag, which was this general concept. They had real tortilla chips (not Fritos) and the toppings were a little bougie... pulled pork, barbacoa, various salsas, cheeses, etc. My friend told me the food was generally good, but it recently closed... likely due to Covid.
posted by SoberHighland at 6:26 PM on December 4, 2020


I’ve also heard it called Trucker Chili.
posted by The corpse in the library at 7:14 PM on December 4, 2020


I've never seen nor heard of a walking taco. I had heard about something called Frito pies, but I (wrongly) assumed that was a savory pie with a crust made of crushed Fritos--which sounded delicious. This sounds awesome. When outdoor festivals are back, I will look for them.
posted by pangolin party at 10:10 PM on December 4, 2020 [1 favorite]


Been in Texas for 60 years and never heard a Frito Pie called a walking taco. I worked at a hippie co-op in Austin where we made Frito Pie with vegetarian tempeh chili, white cheddar cheese. jalapenos, onions and Fritos. Tried many more "natural" kinds of corn chips but nothing works as well as Fritos. Damn Covid, I wish I could go to Wheatsville and get one now.
posted by a humble nudibranch at 11:55 PM on December 4, 2020 [2 favorites]


Now I have to live long enough for this thread to become a Previously.
At that point we're doing a 'wait, you do WHAT' thread between the four camps:
- filled and eaten from the top
- no, you slit it along the long side and make a canoe
- laid on its back and slit open like a baked/jacket potato
- just pour the chips and chili and fixins in a bowl like a human being, you packaging-fetishist weirdos
posted by bartleby at 12:05 AM on December 5, 2020 [10 favorites]


Omg I have never heard of walking tacos before but I am 100% in.

Do you have to walk to enjoy them? Asking for a friend.
posted by Mchelly at 3:43 PM on December 5, 2020


I don't understand how on earth the name "pie" could possibly be applied to these things. Is a plate of nachos a pie?

That being said, I posted a link to this article on Facebook and my midwestern friend I've been having outdoor distanced dinners with was stunned I'd never heard of these and may be making me one of them soon... can't wait
posted by showbiz_liz at 4:18 PM on December 5, 2020


Just adding my personal data point: I’ve never seen any variation of this in the Northeast U.S.
posted by The Underpants Monster at 4:27 PM on December 5, 2020


I am so fucking close to buying an unbelievable shitload of Fritos in individual bags (which is to say, 64-128 individual vending-machine bags depending upon my strength of character) at Costco because of this thread, so now I hate you all.

...also, I may add fried spam cubes to my creation. Behold, I am become Death.
posted by aramaic at 6:40 PM on December 5, 2020 [7 favorites]


I had heard about something called Frito pies, but I (wrongly) assumed that was a savory pie with a crust made of crushed Fritos--which sounded delicious.

Make it happen. This sounds awesome.
posted by sjswitzer at 9:19 PM on December 5, 2020 [1 favorite]


I would totally eat a shepherd’s pie with a crushed Frito crust!
posted by darkstar at 10:14 PM on December 5, 2020


I subscribe to the Santa Fe origin theory as my dad grew up there in the 50s and told us of the Frito Pie and how they used to eat them all the time in high school.

So I’m basing my support on this anecdotal account.
posted by subaruwrx at 10:34 AM on December 6, 2020


I am so fucking close to buying an unbelievable shitload of Fritos in individual bags

I did this at the beginning of the Pandmnit Times (because one of my comfort foods is a tuna sandwich with a side of fritos) and turns out they're remarkably versatile. My current fave is making some of this sweet potato and lentil stew, cooking up some brown rice, pouring it all into a bowl on top of a thin layer of fritos, healthy (mostly) and crunchy and super delicious. You can get fritos in bulk through the mail too.
posted by jessamyn at 11:46 AM on December 6, 2020 [1 favorite]


We had tacos last night and for lunch today I'm making up a batch of chilequiles with the leftover tortillas. Whilst frying up the tortilla wedges I realized that there must be some sort of relation between this traditional breakfast food and the Frito pie...
posted by St. Oops at 3:19 AM on December 7, 2020


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