The Vast Jalapeño Conspiracy
May 27, 2024 5:29 AM Subscribe
Here’s Why Jalapeño Peppers Are Less Spicy Than Ever is an investigation by food writer Brian Reinhart as to why jalapeño peppers are milder than they used to be. Willa Paskin of Slate turned the article into an episode of her podcast The Decoder Ring and went further.
My solution to this is that, just like heirloom tomatoes, there are now essentially heirloom jalapenos. And some of them, like the ones my wife grows in our garden, I'd swear are actually spicier than the commercial ones of old (and I love it).
posted by mystyk at 5:37 AM on May 27 [4 favorites]
posted by mystyk at 5:37 AM on May 27 [4 favorites]
Lol. And I just got to the link. Which essentially says the same thing.
posted by mystyk at 5:42 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
posted by mystyk at 5:42 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
They're generally very mild, but once in a while I get a SPICY batch and it's a nice surprise.
posted by rikschell at 6:03 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
posted by rikschell at 6:03 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
The message is clear - there's nothing that can't be enshittified.
posted by Jessica Savitch's Coke Spoon at 6:09 AM on May 27 [22 favorites]
posted by Jessica Savitch's Coke Spoon at 6:09 AM on May 27 [22 favorites]
The article links to a discussion on the selective breeding of less stinky brussels sprouts, which means that if you haven't tried them in many years then you might not realize they don't taste like you remember from your childhood.
I've heard that modern onions are also less likely to make you cry, not because of careful selection by the farmers, but because the Clear Air Act limited the amount of sulfur compounds in the air, which reduced the amount of sulfur that the onions could draw from the soil, which made them less eye-stinging. Unfortunately I can't find a citation for this.
posted by autopilot at 6:19 AM on May 27 [19 favorites]
I've heard that modern onions are also less likely to make you cry, not because of careful selection by the farmers, but because the Clear Air Act limited the amount of sulfur compounds in the air, which reduced the amount of sulfur that the onions could draw from the soil, which made them less eye-stinging. Unfortunately I can't find a citation for this.
posted by autopilot at 6:19 AM on May 27 [19 favorites]
This feels like the inevitable result of commercial/mass cultivation of produce.
Many years ago, the flesh of Moro blood oranges used to be much more variegated: mostly orange with streaks of red and sometimes no red at all. Today most Moros (usually from Sunkist) have entirely deep red flesh with only a few showing just streaks. I suspect this is in because of consumer expectation that a 'blood orange' be bloody and then grower selection for the reddest possible fruit. (Today, if I can find them, I prefer Sanguinelli or Tarocco varities, which I suspect will undergo similar fates as they become more popular.)
Shishito and Jimmy Nardello peppers are also undergoing changes. Overall, these are mild but occasionally one gets a really hot one. As these continue to gain popularity and cultivation is scaled to match demand, they will get more homogeneous, i.e. consistently less spicy.
posted by Insert Clever Name Here at 6:21 AM on May 27 [5 favorites]
Many years ago, the flesh of Moro blood oranges used to be much more variegated: mostly orange with streaks of red and sometimes no red at all. Today most Moros (usually from Sunkist) have entirely deep red flesh with only a few showing just streaks. I suspect this is in because of consumer expectation that a 'blood orange' be bloody and then grower selection for the reddest possible fruit. (Today, if I can find them, I prefer Sanguinelli or Tarocco varities, which I suspect will undergo similar fates as they become more popular.)
Shishito and Jimmy Nardello peppers are also undergoing changes. Overall, these are mild but occasionally one gets a really hot one. As these continue to gain popularity and cultivation is scaled to match demand, they will get more homogeneous, i.e. consistently less spicy.
posted by Insert Clever Name Here at 6:21 AM on May 27 [5 favorites]
I am super-smart* because I guessed the reason before I RTFA!
I like hot, spicy foods, but I am not a super-heat lover by any means. I cook with poblanos a lot (love them roasted and sautéed with onions in scrambled eggs), and while I still find them irregular in their heat (I taste each one raw before I do my cooking) I find that in my limited research they seem more consistently mild these days, compared to say, 20 years ago. Mild is OK, but I'm finding poblanos that are as bland as bell peppers, and so... what's the point? I don't dislike bell peppers, but... bell peppers exist.
*I am not really super-smart.
posted by SoberHighland at 6:29 AM on May 27 [5 favorites]
I like hot, spicy foods, but I am not a super-heat lover by any means. I cook with poblanos a lot (love them roasted and sautéed with onions in scrambled eggs), and while I still find them irregular in their heat (I taste each one raw before I do my cooking) I find that in my limited research they seem more consistently mild these days, compared to say, 20 years ago. Mild is OK, but I'm finding poblanos that are as bland as bell peppers, and so... what's the point? I don't dislike bell peppers, but... bell peppers exist.
*I am not really super-smart.
posted by SoberHighland at 6:29 AM on May 27 [5 favorites]
So lately I've been making food and thinking "Hm, this tastes really bland," and then thinking, "That's because you put half a jalapeño in when the recipe calls for two jalapeños!"
But when I was first learning to cook, about a quarter of the number of jalapeños called for in the recipe was usually right where I wanted the food to be, in terms of the level of heat. It's good to know one of the reasons, beyond some dead tastebuds and my own doubt of my cooking skills.
posted by Jeanne at 6:57 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
But when I was first learning to cook, about a quarter of the number of jalapeños called for in the recipe was usually right where I wanted the food to be, in terms of the level of heat. It's good to know one of the reasons, beyond some dead tastebuds and my own doubt of my cooking skills.
posted by Jeanne at 6:57 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
As a proud graduate of the University of Texas, it does not surprise me to learn that Aggies had a hand in this.
posted by TedW at 7:20 AM on May 27 [16 favorites]
posted by TedW at 7:20 AM on May 27 [16 favorites]
Interesting about capsicum extract being added to food products to control level of heat. I mean, it makes total sense but I'd never heard of that being a thing. I just looked up a few mass market salsa brands and Old El Paso was the only one that listed capsicum extract in the ingredients. The others must disguise it as good old "natural flavor".
posted by gueneverey at 7:45 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
posted by gueneverey at 7:45 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
I like them milder. I also like hotter peppers, but in their current status they fill an otherwise sparse part of the hotness scale.
And yes they sometimes come out very hot still, as I discovered one day while eating a Kolache on my way to the grocery store. I'd had this exact item from the exact store dozens of times with only mild spice from the half jalepeno included, but on that day it brought tears to my eyes and snot to my nose and I had no water in the car. I could barely drive but somehow made it to the store and rushed right in for a pint of milk!
posted by SaltySalticid at 8:03 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
And yes they sometimes come out very hot still, as I discovered one day while eating a Kolache on my way to the grocery store. I'd had this exact item from the exact store dozens of times with only mild spice from the half jalepeno included, but on that day it brought tears to my eyes and snot to my nose and I had no water in the car. I could barely drive but somehow made it to the store and rushed right in for a pint of milk!
posted by SaltySalticid at 8:03 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
the work of the jalapeño deep state?
posted by the antecedent of that pronoun at 8:22 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
posted by the antecedent of that pronoun at 8:22 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
you know i really thought i was just getting older and perceiving things differently or losing my sense of taste or something but i never thought that they were just making them less spicy
posted by dis_integration at 8:22 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
posted by dis_integration at 8:22 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
Some 25 years ago, I moved from the upper Midwest to Texas, and I had to adjust my recipes because the jalapeños were spicier. I once came in second in a chili contest for that very reason (also because I had the only vegetarian chili on offer).
posted by GenjiandProust at 8:35 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
posted by GenjiandProust at 8:35 AM on May 27 [1 favorite]
I'm not convinced that the variety is the only or main factor here. I don't know about the US, but here in Canada our jalapeños are often imported from Mexico — and they are usually very mild, generally not significantly different from a green bell pepper. But jalapeños in Mexico itself are definitely much spicier, though variable, so I think perhaps they are selecting batches to send to Canada that aren't spicy.
Somewhat relatedly, in Mexico City the big complaint is that the salsas at the taco stands in the hip neighbourhoods aren't spicy any more, because there are so many Americans around who complain when the salsas are too spicy.
posted by ssg at 8:40 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
Somewhat relatedly, in Mexico City the big complaint is that the salsas at the taco stands in the hip neighbourhoods aren't spicy any more, because there are so many Americans around who complain when the salsas are too spicy.
posted by ssg at 8:40 AM on May 27 [2 favorites]
I have certainly seen jars of sliced jalaps in the grocery store labeled as "mild". WTH? How is that a thing? So something is going on there.
I'm not a Habanero fan, (too orange), but I do really enjoy Fresno peppers if you can find them. Red flavor, but a bit spicier than jalaps. Also, when you can get Hatch chilies, you should.
posted by Windopaene at 11:12 AM on May 27
I'm not a Habanero fan, (too orange), but I do really enjoy Fresno peppers if you can find them. Red flavor, but a bit spicier than jalaps. Also, when you can get Hatch chilies, you should.
posted by Windopaene at 11:12 AM on May 27
I enjoy the warmth of sweetness of habanero/Scotch bonnet peppers a lot more than jalapenos which to me are more like spicy green peppers. I've grown some heat-free habaneros and while they are fun to grow and give to my kids I find I enjoy the taste of normal habanero peppers more, although I wouldn't be able to pop a habanero pepper in my mouth and just eat it like I can with the heat-free ones.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:33 AM on May 27
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:33 AM on May 27
Huh, I noticed this but assumed that under the careful guidance of my spouse, who is from a spice-loving culture, which includes growing and making sauce from super-hot peppers, that it was my tolerance that increased, not that jalapenos had lost their potency.
I still plant heirloom varieties of several hot peppers from seed every year, and they're as infernal as ever.
posted by 1adam12 at 11:37 AM on May 27 [3 favorites]
I still plant heirloom varieties of several hot peppers from seed every year, and they're as infernal as ever.
posted by 1adam12 at 11:37 AM on May 27 [3 favorites]
I do really enjoy Fresno peppers if you can find them
Same here...for most things. And I've noticed Fresnos starting to show up in more grocery stores, which is nice.
Fresnos have a slightly sweeter flavor than the green bell pepper-ish flavored jalapenos, but that green flavor works perfectly for certain things (salsa, for instance). If I need the jalapeno flavor but want more spice, easy enough to add a Habanero or a dried Arbol along with the jalapeno.
posted by Greg_Ace at 12:55 PM on May 27
Same here...for most things. And I've noticed Fresnos starting to show up in more grocery stores, which is nice.
Fresnos have a slightly sweeter flavor than the green bell pepper-ish flavored jalapenos, but that green flavor works perfectly for certain things (salsa, for instance). If I need the jalapeno flavor but want more spice, easy enough to add a Habanero or a dried Arbol along with the jalapeno.
posted by Greg_Ace at 12:55 PM on May 27
Interesting about capsicum extract being added to food products to control level of heat.It makes a lot of sense given how soluble capsaicin is in oil and other solvents, though (e.g. tequila!). "Oleoresin capsicum" extracts can have their heat* measured, then added in precise quantities so the heat level is consistent across commercial products produced at scale. (DILUTE! DILUTE! OK!) Scale favors jalapeños with lower heat, because then heat from peppers actually in the food has less impact overall. It also favors breeding mega-ultra-hella hot peppers for making the extracts. Calling it a vast conspiracy is a bit much, though, unless that's specifically referring to capitalism itself.
* "pungency", for pedants
It'd be nice if specific jalapeño varieties for sale were labeled, of course. I grew two last year that still had plenty of heat (Jalafuego and Early Jalapeño), and this year I've started down the rabbit hole of crossbreeding a couple hot / very hot varieties with flavorful but quicker finishing varieties to see if I can get an "Early Ghost", "Early Fatalii", etc. for the shorter growing season here.
posted by silentbicycle at 2:18 PM on May 27 [7 favorites]
I appreciated the specific information that jalapeños are being grown milder to satisfy consistency and convenience demands from food processors. It doesn't make the situation any better but at least it's understandable. I had some fear that milder jalapeños were being favored by individual consumers because they wanted to feel macho eating chiles but didn't actually want heat. (Which is totally fine; milder peppers exist for you!)
Anyway it's a damn shame because fresh hot jalapeños are delicious. These days I mostly use serranos instead, the fresnos and anaheims we get here in NorCal don't have much heat either. Really mostly I add a dash of ground West African birdseye chiles for pure heat to whatever I'm cooking with mild fresh peppers. Don't love doing that but it seems to work.
The dumbing down of chiles seems to be a problem with New Mexico chiles too. Historically we liked our chile hot in the land of enchanment, red or green, but in recent years they don't seem nearly as hot. Some of that may be down to irrigation: you get more yield but less flavor.
(now do garlic! I finally realized the ubiquitous Christopher Ranch garlic we get is no good, both for the varietal and the fact they are stored in refrigeration for years before sale. I'm now preferentially buying farmer's market hardneck garlic and it is so good. It has that sharp bite I had come to miss.)
posted by Nelson at 2:46 PM on May 27 [4 favorites]
Anyway it's a damn shame because fresh hot jalapeños are delicious. These days I mostly use serranos instead, the fresnos and anaheims we get here in NorCal don't have much heat either. Really mostly I add a dash of ground West African birdseye chiles for pure heat to whatever I'm cooking with mild fresh peppers. Don't love doing that but it seems to work.
The dumbing down of chiles seems to be a problem with New Mexico chiles too. Historically we liked our chile hot in the land of enchanment, red or green, but in recent years they don't seem nearly as hot. Some of that may be down to irrigation: you get more yield but less flavor.
(now do garlic! I finally realized the ubiquitous Christopher Ranch garlic we get is no good, both for the varietal and the fact they are stored in refrigeration for years before sale. I'm now preferentially buying farmer's market hardneck garlic and it is so good. It has that sharp bite I had come to miss.)
posted by Nelson at 2:46 PM on May 27 [4 favorites]
One prominent chef favors serranos instead.
These days I mostly use serranos instead
Yep, I started substituting serranos for jalapeños in my grocery shopping years ago, and now I know why. Thanks, Kattullus.
posted by mediareport at 3:42 PM on May 27 [3 favorites]
These days I mostly use serranos instead
Yep, I started substituting serranos for jalapeños in my grocery shopping years ago, and now I know why. Thanks, Kattullus.
posted by mediareport at 3:42 PM on May 27 [3 favorites]
Twenty years ago I would have laughed at those preferring less-hot jalapeños. But as I've developed GERD and increased sensitivity to spicy foods and have been treated for Barrett's Esophagus caused by too many reflux attacks, I say " whatever it takes" and "don't let me yuck your yum."
posted by Ranucci at 4:34 PM on May 27 [4 favorites]
posted by Ranucci at 4:34 PM on May 27 [4 favorites]
aren't shishitos specifically valued for their variation in spiciness/capsaicin? Idk, pretty sure I read some articles outlining the unexpected spice from mild to medium-hot as a selling point. Like it's fun to have as an appetizer or condiment a bowl of low-heat peppers that contains a few that will surprise you.
posted by SaltySalticid at 4:39 PM on May 27
posted by SaltySalticid at 4:39 PM on May 27
See, I just thought I had terrible spice tolerance when I see US recipes adding jalapeños to things willy nilly and yet the ones I pick from my garden will light up my mouth like a firework and have to be used with care.
posted by ninazer0 at 6:51 PM on May 27 [1 favorite]
posted by ninazer0 at 6:51 PM on May 27 [1 favorite]
I was intrigued by the Texas Twinkie. Bacon, beef, cream cheese-- but the salt is kosher!
posted by Nancy Lebovitz at 10:02 PM on May 27 [1 favorite]
posted by Nancy Lebovitz at 10:02 PM on May 27 [1 favorite]
Hopefully the reduction in capsaicin will make the shipping routes more reliable.
posted by polytope subirb enby-of-piano-dice at 1:39 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
posted by polytope subirb enby-of-piano-dice at 1:39 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
Here in Australia I just find jalapeños wildly inconsistent. In the same bag of chiles, you can one that is as mild as a green pepper (capsicum) and one that will burn the underside of your fingernails for days after you briefly touch it. And everything in between. But mostly, too mild to be very useful as chiles.
posted by amusebuche at 4:17 AM on May 28
posted by amusebuche at 4:17 AM on May 28
They’ve definitely gotten milder. But, holy crap, the sizes of the things today is ridiculous. Today’s jalapeños are practically the size of poblanos. It’s silly.
posted by Thorzdad at 6:20 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
posted by Thorzdad at 6:20 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
Not unrelated - the whole Huy Fong sriracha fiasco.
posted by briank at 6:26 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
posted by briank at 6:26 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
I blame the habanerbros
posted by gottabefunky at 8:30 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
posted by gottabefunky at 8:30 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
Hey, people who grow chilis — in backyard-uncontrolled conditions, how variable are they? Same heat off one plant, or not?
posted by clew at 9:29 AM on May 28
posted by clew at 9:29 AM on May 28
I have noticed this, am not unhappy about it. When i get jalapeños on my sandwich, they are so nice. I can use them in cooking more easily and plentifully. There are plenty of tasty, toasty alternatives to milder jalapeños. I am prepared to be shunned.
posted by theora55 at 10:31 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
posted by theora55 at 10:31 AM on May 28 [2 favorites]
I'm with you, theora55; after all, it's not as if there isn't something known as "pepper sauce in a bottle" that people can use to adjust the heat upwards to their taste, without any such corresponding thing (AFAIK) that will neutralize capsaicin and turn the heat down.
(Also, side-eyeing the use of "enshittified" upthread, a word which in its own overuse is rapidly becoming youknowwhatified.)
posted by Halloween Jack at 10:36 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
(Also, side-eyeing the use of "enshittified" upthread, a word which in its own overuse is rapidly becoming youknowwhatified.)
posted by Halloween Jack at 10:36 AM on May 28 [1 favorite]
Jalapeños are supposed to a moderately hot pepper. That is what they tasted like until recently. If you like a milder pepper on your sandwich, that's great! May I suggest bell peppers? Or pequillos? Or sweet paprika? Or fresh pepperoncini? Or poblanos? Or padrons or shishitos if you like a little danger in your life?
If it's very important to you that what you eat is exactly a jalapeño, there are several no-heat jalapeños bred specially for that purpose. Including the TAM II peppers mentioned in this article. Enjoy them! The problem is they have entirely taken over the jalapeño supply ruining the original pepper. The situation is a little like the brussels sprouts change mentioned above except AFAIK no one misses the old strong tasting sprouts. (If so, I sympathize!)
Pepper sauce in a bottle is nice but it's not a pepper. It's a sauce. Almost always with acid (either fermented peppers or vinegar) and usually with a lot of salt, garlic, and other flavorings. It is not a substitute for fresh hot peppers. You can add pure capsicum, as the article notes. Chile powder is what I use, alcohol suspensions also work well in cooked dishes. But now I'm having to add back something that should be in the original pepper, like some sort of food lab.
(Handy reference: pepper list sorted by Scovilles. Doesn't account for ranges.)
posted by Nelson at 11:10 AM on May 28 [3 favorites]
If it's very important to you that what you eat is exactly a jalapeño, there are several no-heat jalapeños bred specially for that purpose. Including the TAM II peppers mentioned in this article. Enjoy them! The problem is they have entirely taken over the jalapeño supply ruining the original pepper. The situation is a little like the brussels sprouts change mentioned above except AFAIK no one misses the old strong tasting sprouts. (If so, I sympathize!)
Pepper sauce in a bottle is nice but it's not a pepper. It's a sauce. Almost always with acid (either fermented peppers or vinegar) and usually with a lot of salt, garlic, and other flavorings. It is not a substitute for fresh hot peppers. You can add pure capsicum, as the article notes. Chile powder is what I use, alcohol suspensions also work well in cooked dishes. But now I'm having to add back something that should be in the original pepper, like some sort of food lab.
(Handy reference: pepper list sorted by Scovilles. Doesn't account for ranges.)
posted by Nelson at 11:10 AM on May 28 [3 favorites]
aren't shishitos specifically valued for their variation in spiciness/capsaicin? Idk, pretty sure I read some articles outlining the unexpected spice from mild to medium-hot as a selling point. Like it's fun to have as an appetizer or condiment a bowl of low-heat peppers that contains a few that will surprise you.
I enjoy the variation but some can be spicier than my kids can tolerate so they're always a bit hesitant to eat them.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:30 AM on May 28
I enjoy the variation but some can be spicier than my kids can tolerate so they're always a bit hesitant to eat them.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:30 AM on May 28
The message is clear - there's nothing that can't be enshittified.
Except shit itself. Or so we hope.
posted by y2karl at 12:14 PM on May 28
Except shit itself. Or so we hope.
posted by y2karl at 12:14 PM on May 28
There’s PFAS in ?all? shit and manure now which is a serious degradation in quality.
posted by clew at 2:31 PM on May 28 [2 favorites]
posted by clew at 2:31 PM on May 28 [2 favorites]
Hey, people who grow chilis — in backyard-uncontrolled conditions, how variable are they? Same heat off one plant, or not?
They are relatively similar across a single plant, but variable across multiple plants in the same conditions, and supposedly the amount of heat is controlled by water - less water = more heat.
The 'no heat' jalapenos are relatively recent inventions, probably just the last decade or so. The shape of a jalapeno, the heat of a bell pepper.
posted by The_Vegetables at 2:43 PM on May 28 [2 favorites]
They are relatively similar across a single plant, but variable across multiple plants in the same conditions, and supposedly the amount of heat is controlled by water - less water = more heat.
The 'no heat' jalapenos are relatively recent inventions, probably just the last decade or so. The shape of a jalapeno, the heat of a bell pepper.
posted by The_Vegetables at 2:43 PM on May 28 [2 favorites]
The uncontrolled chiles in my backyard are more or less consistent, chiltepines will always be hotter than the chiles the agua, for example.
But there can be a notable difference among different plants of the same type, based on watering, duration and intensity of sunlight, and other variables I have not figured out.
The same variables affect aspects other than hotness. Just looking at the shade of green of the leaves, how woody the stem looks, how closely the flowers cluster… I could tell if a branch came from the super hot chiltepin es growing in full sun in soil made mostly of pumice and scoria, or the milder one that gets afternoon shade and extra water from the sprinklers.
Even from the same plant, chilies will be spicier in different batches. Almost all “annual” chilies are perennial in my climate, and I get multiple batches from the same plants every year.
posted by Dr. Curare at 10:37 AM on May 29 [1 favorite]
But there can be a notable difference among different plants of the same type, based on watering, duration and intensity of sunlight, and other variables I have not figured out.
The same variables affect aspects other than hotness. Just looking at the shade of green of the leaves, how woody the stem looks, how closely the flowers cluster… I could tell if a branch came from the super hot chiltepin es growing in full sun in soil made mostly of pumice and scoria, or the milder one that gets afternoon shade and extra water from the sprinklers.
Even from the same plant, chilies will be spicier in different batches. Almost all “annual” chilies are perennial in my climate, and I get multiple batches from the same plants every year.
posted by Dr. Curare at 10:37 AM on May 29 [1 favorite]
I bought some NorCal farmer's market jalapeños today and I'm happy to report they have heat. I didn't think to ask what varietal they're planting but clearly not a no-heat version.
posted by Nelson at 10:54 AM on June 22 [1 favorite]
posted by Nelson at 10:54 AM on June 22 [1 favorite]
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